Who said anything about jQuery? A web site can be pretty, functional, and have a high browser compatibility, all without any of these new fads.
I agree with the OP that this web site is rather ugly; it requires a bit more white-space at points, a bit of font and size changes at others, perhaps something to hint that the navigation 'cloud' is a navigation bar ... and that's about it. Not much. But it looks like someone just (in the past few hours) changed the code-block font size default to a more agreeable one (finally!)
If there's one actual functionality change that's needed, it's not having to type out html tags just to get a damn paragraph break. Textile or Markdown or even just plain text, please.